Introduction viiPART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1Chapter 1 Background Information 3Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation 6, History 9, Government and politics 26, Economy 27, People 28, Language 30, Religion 31,Education 34, Culture 34Chapter 2 Practical Information 39When to visit 39, Highlights 39, Suggested itineraries 40, Tour operators 41, Red tape 42, Embassies 45, Getting there and away 46, Health 48, Safety 62, What to take 66, Money 66, Getting around 67, Maps 73,Accommodation 74, Eating and drinking 75, Public holidays 77, Shopping 78, Photography 79, Media and communications 80, Business 82, Cultural etiquette 82, Travelling positively 84PART TWO THE GUIDE 87Chapter 3 Khartoum and Omdurman 89History 89, Getting there 91, Getting around 94, Tourist information/local tour operators 96, Where to stay 96, Where to eat 99, Entertainment andsports 103, Shopping 105, Other practicalities 106, Media and communications 107, What to see and do 107Chapter 4 Northern State 119Mero¿nd the pyramids 120, Naqa 123, Musawwarat es Sufra 125, Karima 127, Nuri 131, El Kurru 132,Ghazali 133, Old Dongola 134, Dongola 135, Kawa 136, Travel along the Nile 137, Kerma 138, West banktemples 141, Abri 144, Wadi Halfa 145Chapter 5 Nile State 151Shendi 151, Atbara 153, Ed Damer 155, Berber 155,Abu Hamed 155Chapter 6 Red Sea 157Port Sudan 157, Excursions from Port Sudan 162, Scubadiving from Port Sudan 163, Suakin 168Chapter 7 Al Qadarif and Kassala 173Kassala 173, Gedaref 178Chapter 8 Central Sudan 181Kosti 181, Aba Island 184, Sennar 185, Wad Medani 189Chapter 9 Kordofan 191El Obeid 191, The Nuba Mountains 196Chapter 10 Darfur 205Background 207, Travel in Darfur 212, Nyala 214, ElFasher 214, El Geneina 214Appendix 1 Language 215Appendix 2 Glossary 219Appendix 3 Further Information 221Index 225