Contents
PREFACE: An Ethical Approach 1 Should You Use Lichen Dyes?
1 History of Asian and Southern European Lichen Dyes
Ancient Purples Phoenician Purples Roman Murex and Orchil 6 Bronze and Iron Age Lichen
Dyes Florentine Orchil Medieval and Renaissance Lichen
Dyes Industrial Revolution and Lichen
Dyes The Cudbear Industry Norwegian Korkje
2 Domestic Lichen Dyes of Northern Europe and North America
Traditional Lichen Dye Methods Domestic Scottish Lichen Dyes Irish Lichen Dyes
Scandinavian Lichen Dyes Early American Lichen Dyes American Aboriginal
Lichen Dyes
3 Safe Lichen Dye Methods and Techniques
Safe Lichen Dyes BWM Lichen Dyes AM Lichen Dyes (Orsallia) European AM Dyes Natural (and Unnatural)
Materials
Fibre Preparation
Equipment
Light Fastness and Delayed
Rinsing
Trouble-Shooting
4 Eco Dyes and Alternative Mordants
Reduced Ammonia AM dye
Formula Three-Step Solar Lichen Dyes Three-Step POD Lichen Dyes Fastness and Exhaust Dyes Washing Dyed Fibres
Lichen Dyes: The New Source Book
Lichens as Mordants Found Materials and Household Mordants How to Adjust AM Dye Bath pH
5 Ethics and Lichen Identification
Code of Ethics Lichens and Dye Pigments Chemical Reagents (The C Test)
How to Learn Lichen Identification9 "Found" Lichens
Epilogue Photographs and Illustrations Glossary Acknowledgements Annotated Bibliography General Index Name, Language, and Place Index