Preface to the Third Edition

Introduction

The Fashioned Body 3.0

Conclusion

1 Addressing the Body

Introduction: Dress and the Body

Theoretical Resources

The body as cultural object

The influence of Foucault

The body versus embodiment

Merleau-Ponty and embodiment

Dress and embodiment

Dressed bodies in space

Sociological accounts of the body and embodiment

Addressing the body in the twenty-first century

Conclusion

2 Theorising Fashion and Dress

Introduction

Defining the Terms

Defining dress

Defining fashion

Everyday dress and fashion

Approaches to Fashion and Dress

Sociology and fashion

Addressing the literature on fashion

Theoretical approaches I: 'why' questions

Theoretical explanations: why fashion?

Theoretical approaches II: fashion and the condition of modern life

Conclusion

3 Fashion, Dress and Social Change

Introduction: Theorising Fashion and Dress: Twenty-First-Century Debates

Western Fashion History

Fashion and Social Change

The Beginnings of European Fashion

Class, status and power in late medieval and early modern European culture

Fashion in the Renaissance Court

Fashion in the Seventeenth Century

Dress, class and social identity in the eighteenth century

Fashion from the Nineteenth Century Onwards

Conclusion: Fashion, Social and Aesthetic Change

4 Fashion and Identity: From Modernity to Intersectionality

Introduction

Fashion and Identity in Modernity

Modernity: Imitation and Differentiation

Fashion as artifice

Fashion and authenticity

Clothing, class and fashioning identity

The dandy

The Romantic bohemian

Fashion and identity in contemporary culture

Class, distinction and style

Subcultural style, subcultural capital

Contemporary debates on fashion and identity: 'race', ethnicity and religious identities

Intersectionality

Conclusion

5 Identity: Gender and Fashion

Introduction

Sex, Gender and Sexuality

Looking Back: Dress and Gender in History

Femininity and fashion

Dress and gender differentiation

Explaining the differences - a 'natural' difference

Explaining the differences - 'social' divisions

Victorian dress reform

Working-class dress

Dress and Gender in the Twentieth Century

Challenges to gendered dress

Menswear: male peacocks and the 'new man'

Challenges to the gender binary: androgyny and unisex clothing

Cross-dressing, unisex, and transgender challenges

Masquerade, gender exaggeration and ambiguity

Transgender politics

Gender and fashion: fashion studies in the twenty-first century

Conclusion

6 Identity: Fashion, Adornment and Sexuality

Introduction

Sexuality, Bodies and Dress

Adornment and Sexual Attraction

Power-dressing, Femininity and Sexuality

Fetishism and Adornment

The corset controversy

Transvestism

Underwear and eroticism

Adornment and Sexual Identity

Gay and Lesbian Dress and Sexuality

Conclusion

7 The Fashion Industry

Introduction

Historical Development of the Fashion Industry

An Imperfect Industry

Fashion and inequalities

Gender, Class and Ethnic Relations in the Fashion Industry

Fashion Consumption and Culture

Changing Patterns of Fashion Retail

Markets, shops and department stores

Fashion as Culture Industry: Fashion Industry from the Twentieth Century

From elite style to popular fashion

Fashion: culture industry, circuits, and networks

The field of fashion

Markets as Networks

Fashion in the Twenty-First Century

Fashion industry: twenty-first-century contemporary critiques

Sustainability

Fashion ethics

Ethics and diversity in fashion

Conclusion

Notes

Conclusion: Fashioned Bodies in the Twenty-First Century

References

Index